A bit further down from the centre was a main shopping street invitingly devoid of sunlight and having been rejuvenated by the Italian equivalent of a Knickerbocker Glory, we went in search of mementoes with renewed enthusiasm. Two handbags, one pair of earrings, and a Swiss Army knife later, we realised that we now had the place to ourselves and were free to wander and enjoy the towns splendours without having to negotiate small children and old grannies. It is a truly wonderful place, but you need to go early or stay late. On the way back we were overtaken by cyclists (male and female!) – were they in training for next year’s Tour de France, or ones from this year, who had got lost in the Pyrenees? We made it back to Bagni de Lucca just before 10.00pm, so decided to end our perfect day with a candlelit meal. We chose the most populated restaurant on the premise that a full establishment sold the best food – and at that time they were no longer busy. We started with homemade Tuscan soup followed by local trout and Graham ordered a proper Italian pizza (which he could only just finish). At the table next to us was a large group of people from Scotland celebrating a couple’s 40th Wedding Anniversary, which was very jolly. We had a lovely meal there and as we got up to go and pay, the proprietor poured us both a glass of grappa – a grape liquor (guaranteed to strip the paint from any surface). We explained that we too were celebrating our wedding anniversary, and he pointed to the chap next to us who said that he was celebrating 28 years!
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